County Fair Crochet: 7 Tips to Win Best of Show

Pull up a chair, grab your tea, and let’s talk about the glorious, slightly chaotic world of county fairs. I remember walking into my first county fair crochet competition back in 1998. I was twenty-two, convinced that my lopsided granny square blanket was a masterpiece of modern art. It wasn’t. But the ribbon? Oh, the ribbon was real. That experience taught me that winning isn’t just about making something pretty; it’s about understanding the game. And trust me, there is a game being played here, even if the judges pretend they’re just looking at yarn.

Understanding County Fair Crochet Competitions

First things first: you need to know where your project fits. Most county fairs operate under “Home Economics” or “Crafts,” and they break things down into specific bins. If you throw your intricate amigurumi bear into the “Textiles” general category without checking, you’ll likely get lost in the shuffle.

Types of Crochet Categories

Common categories usually include:

• Afghans and Throw Blankets: This is the heavyweight division. Judges look for size, drape, and consistency. A standard entry might need to be at least 40x50 inches.
• Garments: Sweaters, cardigans, and dresses. These are judged on fit, construction, and wearability.
• Doilies and Lace Work: Don’t underestimate these small squares! They test your precision. If your points are puffy or your turns are visible, you’re out.
• Amigurumi and Toys: A newer category in many fairs, but growing fast. Stuffed animals, dolls, and decorative figures go here.
• Accessories: Bags, hats, scarves, and washcloths.

The tricky part? Every fair has its own flavor. One year, my local fair had a “Baby Items” category; another year, it was split by “Natural Fibers” vs. “Synthetics.” You must read the premium book—that’s the fancy name for the rulebook. I once spent three weeks working on a merino wool cowl, only to realize late in the game that the fair required natural fibers to be undyed. I had to unravel four days’ work because I liked color too much. Frustrating? Yes. Educational? Absolutely.

Rules and Entry Requirements

Here is the golden rule of county fair crochet: Read the book. I can’t stress this enough. I’ve seen seasoned crocheters disqualified because they used a kit pattern when the rules stated “original design only,” or because they entered a piece made for charity instead of for personal use. Most fairs require the piece to be made by the entrant within the last 12–18 months.

Look for these specific constraints:

• Originality: No kits, no patterns sold specifically for competitions unless allowed.
• Size Limits: Afghans often have maximum dimensions (e.g., 70x90 inches). If yours is bigger, it might not fit on the table.
• Labeling: You will receive an entry tag. You must attach it securely, usually inside a seam or hem. Never staple it to the front!
• Deadlines: Entries are often due 2–4 weeks before the fair. Late entries are rarely accepted, no matter how good your stitch count is.

Registration fees vary, but expect to pay between $1.00 and $2.50 per entry. It seems trivial, but those fees add up when you’re submitting a dishcloth, a scarf, and a sweater. Also, check if there’s a class for your age group (Youth, Adult, Senior). Some fairs have separate ribbons for teenagers versus adults, which changes your competition pool significantly. When I first started, I competed against grandmothers who had been crocheting since the 1960s. I didn’t win then, but I learned who I was really up against.

Selecting a Winning Project

So, you’ve read the rules. Now, what do you make? This is where many crafters trip over their own yarn balls. The urge is to make something complex, something that shows off every stitch technique you’ve ever learned. But here’s the secret I’ve learned over two decades: Judges don’t award points for difficulty; they award points for execution.

A perfectly executed simple dishcloth will beat a messy, intricate lace shawl every time.

What Judges Look For

When a judge picks up your item, they aren’t thinking about how long it took you. They are thinking about technical excellence. Here is what goes into that mental scorecard:

1. Tension Consistency: Are your stitches uniform? If you’re using a 4.0mm hook and switching to a 3.5mm hook halfway through because your wrist hurt, the judge will see it. Consistency is king.
2. Stitch Definition: In lace, is the pattern clear? In single crochet (sc), is the fabric dense and even?
3. Finishing: This is where amateurs lose. No loose ends hanging out. No puckered seams. A professionally finished edge looks like it belongs on a high-end boutique shelf, not a garage sale table.
4. Creativity: While technical skills are paramount, a unique color combination or a clever twist on a classic pattern can give you the edge.
5. Design: Does the garment actually look good on a hanger? Does the afghan lay flat?

For example, if you’re making a scarf, don’t just chain 60 and work single crochet. Try a textured stitch like the moss stitch or a subtle cable pattern using a 5mm hook. Use a worsted weight wool blend for warmth and structure. The goal is to show that you understand how fiber behaves.

Best Projects for Beginners vs. Advanced

If you’re new to competition, start small. A well-blocked cotton washcloth using a half double crochet (hdc) stitch is a fantastic entry. It tests your edge work and your tension. Keep your hook size steady—say, a 3.5mm hook for tight, defined stitches. Avoid amigurumi for your first entry unless you have experience with invisible joins and seamless increases. The learning curve is steep, and a slightly uneven head shape is instantly noticeable to a judge.

For advanced crocheters, I recommend tackling something with structure. A fitted cardigan using fingering weight silk-cotton blend yarn shows off your ability to handle delicate fibers and precise gauge. Or, try a complex lace afghan using DK weight yarn and a 4.0mm hook. The challenge here is maintaining tension over a large area without the fabric warping.

Remember, quality always beats complexity. I once saw a competitor enter a blanket made entirely of single crochet with perfect, uniform edges. She won blue. Another competitor entered a massive, multi-colored tapestry with beautiful motifs but sloppy weaving on the back. They got a participation ribbon. The moral? Hide your messes. If it looks clean on the outside, judges assume it’s clean on the inside.

Preparation and Finishing Techniques

This is the section that separates the hobbyists from the competitors. You can have the most beautiful stitch pattern in the world, but if you haven’t blocked your piece properly, it will look lumpy and unprofessional. Blocking is not optional. It is mandatory.

Blocking and Shaping

Blocking relaxes the fibers, evens out the stitches, and sets the shape. The method depends entirely on your yarn fiber.

Wool and Alpaca: These are heat-sensitive. You can use steam blocking. Hold a steam iron above the fabric (don’t touch it directly!) and let the steam penetrate the fibers. Alternatively, use a wet block. Lay your piece on a towel, pin it to the desired dimensions using rust-proof pins, and let it air dry. Years ago, I accidentally ironed an alpaca blend too directly. It felted instantly. My sweater became a tiny, dense rug. Never skip the label check!

Cotton and Mercerized Cotton: These respond well to wet blocking. Soak your piece in cool water with a bit of hair conditioner or wool wash (yes, even for cotton, it helps relax fibers). Roll it in a towel to remove excess water. Pin it to a blocking mat or thick towel. For lace projects, you want to open up the holes. For solid projects like a dishcloth, you want straight edges.

Acrylic: This is the tricky one. Acrylic melts. You cannot steam it directly. You must use a very light mist of water and pin it tightly. Let it air dry completely. Some crafters use a hair dryer on the lowest setting from a distance, but I prefer air drying to avoid accidental melting. If you use acrylic, choose a high-quality brand like Lion Brand or Bernat, which holds a shape better than cheaper alternatives.

Weaving Ends and Seaming

Judges flip your project over. They will see your ends. If you have a tail sticking out an inch, you’re losing points.

Weaving Ends: Thread your tail onto a yarn needle. Weave it through the back loops of adjacent stitches for about 4–6 inches. Change direction once to lock it in place. Trim the tail close to the fabric. For invisible joins in amigurumi, use a tapestry needle to weave the yarn through the front loops of the previous round, creating a seamless transition.

Seaming: If you’re making a garment in pieces, use a mattress stitch for side seams. It creates an invisible join that looks like a continuous tube of knitting. For joining amigurumi parts, use the slip stitch (sl st) method, inserting the hook through both layers of the fabric. Keep your tension tight so there are no gaps.

I spent a summer perfecting my mattress stitch. It wasn’t glamorous, but it made the difference between a “Honorable Mention” and a “Blue Ribbon” on my first sweater. Practice on scraps first. Mess up a few times. Then, apply that perfection to your entry. Remember, the goal is to make the viewer forget they are looking at separate pieces joined together.

Display and Presentation

You’ve made a beautiful piece. Now, how do you show it off? Presentation matters more than you think. Judges see dozens of entries, and a well-displayed item catches their eye first.

Choosing the Right Hanger or Stand

For garments, use a padded hanger. It prevents shoulder bumps and keeps the shape intact. For afghans, fold them neatly—usually in thirds lengthwise and then in half—so they fit on the judging table without dragging. For doilies, pin them to a dark background to make the lace pop. I once saw a competitor frame her lace doily in a simple black hoop. It looked like art. She won first place.

Labeling and Tags

Your entry tag is your lifeline. Attach it securely with a safety pin or a small stitch through a seam. Never staple it—staples leave holes and can snag the yarn. Write your information clearly in permanent marker. If the tag falls off, your entry might get lost or disqualified. Honestly, I’ve seen it happen. It’s heartbreaking.

Timing Your Entry

Don’t wait until the last minute. I’ve done that, and I regretted it. Rushing leads to mistakes—uneven tension, missed ends, poor blocking. Give yourself at least 2 weeks before the deadline to finish and block your piece. Then, check it over one more time. Ask yourself: Would I pay money for this? If the answer is no, fix it.

Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

Even experienced crocheters make mistakes. Here are the ones I see most often, and how to avoid them.

Ignoring the Premium Book

I can’t say this enough: read the book. Every fair has different rules. One year, my friend entered a beautiful lace shawl, but the fair required all entries to be made from a pattern published in the last 5 years. Hers was from a 1980s magazine. Disqualified. She was furious, but the rules were clear.

Poor Tension Control

Tension is everything. If your stitches are tight in some rows and loose in others, the judge will notice. Use the same hook size throughout—I recommend a 4.0mm hook for worsted weight yarn—and check your gauge every 10 rows. If you feel your wrist tightening, take a break. Your tension will thank you.

Skipping the Blocking Step

Blocking is not optional. I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again. A blocked piece looks professional. An unblocked piece looks like a hobby project. Which one do you want to win?

Overcomplicating the Design

You don’t need to use every stitch you know. A simple pattern executed perfectly beats a complex pattern with mistakes. My approach is to pick one or two techniques and master them. For example, a scarf with a simple cable pattern using a 5mm hook and worsted weight yarn can look stunning if the cables are even and the edges are straight.

Final Thoughts on Winning

Winning at a county fair isn’t about luck. It’s about preparation, attention to detail, and understanding what judges want. I’ve been doing this for over 25 years, and I still get nervous before every entry. But I’ve learned that the process—the planning, the stitching, the blocking—is just as rewarding as the ribbon.

So, what’s your next project going to be? A lace doily? A fitted cardigan? A simple washcloth? Whatever you choose, put your heart into it. Check your tension. Weave your ends. Block it until it’s perfect. And when you walk into that fairground and see your piece on the table, you’ll feel proud. Honestly, that feeling never gets old.

Now, go grab your hook and your yarn. The fair is waiting.