Free Online Crochet Tool

Amigurumi Yarn & Resizing Calculator

Work out exactly how much yarn you need and what the finished size will be when you change hook, switch yarn, or scale a whole pattern.

Calculation mode

Same pattern, new hook or yarn — yarn scales linearly with stitch size.

How do you want to specify gauge?

≈ 22 st / 10 cm

≈ 26 st / 10 cm

Your result

New yarn required
85 g
Finished size
85%
of original
Volume
61%
of original

Individual tension varies — treat results as ±15% guidance.

How this amigurumi calculator works

Resizing an amigurumi is one of the most common — and most commonly botched — tasks in crochet. People reach for the wrong formula because the physics changes depending on what you are changing. This tool splits the problem into two distinct scenarios so you always apply the right math.

Scenario A: same pattern, new hook or yarn (linear scaling)

This is the situation most crocheters actually face. You have a pattern that calls for 100 g of worsted yarn at 20 stitches per 10 cm, and you want to make the same amigurumi using DK yarn at 28 stitches per 10 cm. The stitch count in the pattern does not change — only the size of each individual stitch changes. Because total yarn is the sum of yarn-per-stitch × stitch-count, and yarn-per-stitch is proportional to stitch length, the total yarn scales linearly with the ratio of gauges.

The formula is: new_yarn = original_yarn × (original_gauge ÷ target_gauge). The finished size scales by the same ratio. So switching from 20 to 28 stitches per 10 cm makes the piece about 71% of the original size and uses about 71% of the yarn.

A critical caveat: do not assume that halving the hook size halves the gauge. Gauge is dominated by the yarn’s physical thickness, not the hook number. A 4 mm hook with DK yarn produces a very different gauge than a 4 mm hook with worsted. That is why this calculator lets you specify gauge either directly (stitches per 10 cm from a real swatch) or by selecting a yarn weight class, which looks up a typical gauge band from the Craft Yarn Council standard.

Scenario B: same yarn, resize the pattern (cubic scaling)

Sometimes you want to keep the exact same yarn and hook but make the finished piece larger or smaller than the designer intended — a 15 cm bunny becomes a 30 cm bunny. To do this you must rewrite the pattern, scaling the stitch count in every round. Because an amigurumi is roughly a 3D solid, every linear dimension (height, width, depth) scales together, so the total volume — and therefore the total yarn — scales with the cube of the linear size factor.

The formula is: new_yarn = original_yarn × scale³. Doubling the size (2×) requires 8× the yarn, not 2×. This catches many makers by surprise and is the single biggest reason hand-dyed yarn runs out mid-project. The "Resize pattern" mode in the calculator above applies this cubic formula and warns you when the scale is extreme.

Why gauge, not hook size, drives the calculation

Many online calculators ask you for "original hook" and "new hook" and apply a simple ratio. This is misleading. The hook is just a tool; the gauge is the physical reality. Two crocheters using the same hook and yarn can produce gauges 30% apart because of tension differences. A swatch is the only honest input. If you cannot swatch, picking a yarn weight class and using its typical gauge band is a more honest estimate than assuming hook size alone.

For amigurumi specifically, you want a tighter gauge than for garments so the stuffing does not leak through the stitches. Most amigurumi designers recommend going down one hook size from the yarn label’s recommendation. Keep that in mind when reading the gauge this tool suggests for a given yarn weight.

Practical worked example

A pattern calls for 80 g of worsted yarn at 22 stitches per 10 cm. You want to use DK yarn instead. From the yarn weight table, DK typically gauges around 26 stitches per 10 cm. Using linear mode: scale = 22 ÷ 26 ≈ 0.846. New yarn = 80 × 0.846 ≈ 68 g. Finished size ≈ 85% of the original. If you instead wanted to keep the worsted yarn but upscale the pattern by 1.5×, switch to cubic mode: 80 × 1.5³ = 80 × 3.375 = 270 g. Same starting number, very different answer.

Limitations and accuracy

No calculator can perfectly predict yarn use because hand tension varies, colour changes waste yarn, and amigurumi shapes are not perfect solids. Treat these results as guidance with roughly ±15% uncertainty. Always buy a little extra yarn from the same dye lot — running out with 5 g to go is the oldest heartbreak in crochet. The PDF this tool exports is designed to be printed and taken to the yarn shop.

Crochet Hook Size Conversion Chart

Metric (mm) to US designations, plus the recommended hook range for each yarn weight. Use this as a starting point — your personal tension always decides the final gauge.

Metric US Metric US
2.0 mm B-1 4.5 mm 7
2.3 mm B-1 5.0 mm H-8
2.5 mm C-2 5.5 mm I-9
2.8 mm C-2 6.0 mm J-10
3.0 mm D-3 6.5 mm K-10½
3.3 mm D-3 7.0 mm L-11
3.5 mm E-4 8.0 mm M-13
3.8 mm F-5 9.0 mm N-15
4.0 mm G-6 10.0 mm P/Q
4.5 mm 7 15.0 mm Q
5.0 mm H-8 5.0 mm H-8
5.5 mm I-9 5.5 mm I-9
6.0 mm J-10 6.0 mm J-10
6.5 mm K-10½ 6.5 mm K-10½
7.0 mm L-11 7.0 mm L-11
8.0 mm M-13 8.0 mm M-13
9.0 mm N-15 9.0 mm N-15
10.0 mm P/Q 10.0 mm P/Q
15.0 mm Q 15.0 mm Q

Yarn Weight → Recommended Hook

CYC Level Weight Name UK / AU Hook Range Typical SC Gauge
0 Lace 1 ply 1.5–2.3 mm 36–42 st / 10 cm
1 Super Fine / Fingering 4 ply 2.3–3.5 mm 32–36 st / 10 cm
2 Fine / Sport 5 ply 3.5–4.5 mm 28–32 st / 10 cm
3 Light / DK DK / 8 ply 4.5–5.5 mm 24–28 st / 10 cm
4 Medium / Worsted Aran 5.5–6.5 mm 20–24 st / 10 cm
5 Bulky / Chunky Chunky 6.5–9.0 mm 16–20 st / 10 cm
6 Super Bulky Super Chunky 9.0–15.0 mm 12–16 st / 10 cm
7 Jumbo Super Chunky+ 15.0–25.0 mm 8–12 st / 10 cm

Frequently asked questions

How do I calculate how much yarn I need when changing hook size?

When you keep the same pattern but change hook size or yarn, your stitch count stays fixed and only the size of each stitch changes. The yarn required scales linearly with the gauge ratio: new yarn = original yarn × (original gauge ÷ target gauge). For example, if a pattern calls for 100 g at 20 stitches per 10 cm and you switch to a gauge of 40 stitches per 10 cm, you will need roughly 50 g. Always swatch first, because real-world tension varies by 10–15%.

How do I resize an amigurumi pattern to make it bigger or smaller?

To resize a pattern while keeping the same yarn and hook, you have to scale the stitch count in all three dimensions, so the total yarn scales with the cube of the linear size factor. If you want a piece 1.5× the original size, multiply the yarn by 1.5³ = 3.375. The calculator above has an Advanced "Resize pattern" mode that does this for you.

What is gauge in crochet and why does it matter for amigurumi?

Gauge is the number of stitches and rows per 10 cm (4 in). It is the single most important factor in whether your finished amigurumi matches the designer’s size. For amigurumi specifically, a tight gauge matters more than for garments — gaps between stitches would let the stuffing show through. Always measure your own gauge with the exact yarn and hook you plan to use, rather than trusting the hook size on the yarn label.

Is this amigurumi calculator free to use?

Yes. The calculator runs entirely in your browser, requires no signup, and exports results to PDF for free. There is no usage limit.

Need a pattern to resize?

Turn any photo into a pixel-perfect crochet pattern first, then come back here to scale it to the size you want.

Try the Photo-to-Pattern Studio