How to Crochet a Babybel Cheese Cover: Free Pattern & Tips

Materials and Gauge

Grab your tea, because we need to talk supplies before we touch a hook. After twenty years of crocheting everything from lacy shawls to sturdy dog beds, I can tell you this: the secret to a realistic Babybel cover isn’t magic; it’s tension. Rush the materials, and you’ll end up with a lump that looks more like a potato than a cheese wheel. Nobody wants to gift a potato.

For this project, I recommend a DK weight (light worsted) cotton blend or 100% cotton yarn. Cotton has less stretch than acrylic, which helps the fabric hold its shape tighter, mimicking the waxy rind. If you want it softer for a newborn toy, a merino wool blend works beautifully, but it will feel fluffier rather than realistic. Pair your yarn with a 3.5mm (E) or 4.0mm (G) hook. Hook size matters immensely here. Too large, and your stitches look like gaping teeth; too small, and you’ll spend hours fighting your yarn until your thumbs protest.

Beyond yarn and hook, gather these essentials:

• Stitch markers: Absolutely non-negotiable. Trying to count rounds by memory is a recipe for disaster.
• Tapestry needle: For weaving in ends cleanly.
• Scissors: Sharp ones, please. Dull blades fray your joy.
• Polyfill (Optional): The original patterns I’ve seen floating around online usually assume an unstuffed, flat disk that you sandwich a real cheese wheel between. But many crafters ask how to make a plush toy version. Keep a bag of polyester fiberfill handy if you decide to go that route later.

Let’s talk gauge. I know, everyone hates making swatches. But if your gauge is off, your “cheese” might fit a Camembert instead of a Babybel, or worse, it won’t fit anything comfortably. You need approximately 6 single crochet stitches per inch (2.5 cm) in the round.

To check this, chain 4, join to form a ring, and work 6 single crochets into the ring for three rounds. Measure the diameter. If it’s smaller than 5cm (about 2 inches), switch to a larger hook. If it’s larger, downsize your hook. A tight gauge gives that smooth, waxy appearance we’re aiming for. It feels restrictive at first, but your finished object will thank you.

Step-by-Step Pattern

Right then, let’s get our hands dirty. We’re building this from the center out. We’re making two identical circles that will wrap around your actual cheese wheel. Think of it like wrapping a present, but the present is delicious and the wrapping is edible-looking.

Round 1: Start with a Magic Ring (or an adjustable loop). Chain 1 (this does not count as a stitch). Work 6 single crochets (sc) into the ring. Pull the tail tight to close the hole. Pro-tip: Don’t be shy with that tail! If you leave it loose, your center will gape open like a surprised mouth, and nothing ruins the illusion of cheese faster than a hole where no hole should be. You should have 6 stitches.

Round 2: Chain 1. In each stitch around, work 2 single crochets (sc). This is called an “increase.” You’re doubling your stitch count. Move your stitch marker up. You now have 12 stitches. This round starts to flatten out the circle.

Round 3: Chain 1. Single crochet in the next stitch, then 2 single crochets in the following stitch. Repeat this pattern all the way around. This is a standard increase pattern that keeps the circle flat. Count your stitches carefully—this should bring you to 18 stitches.

At this point, you should have a small, flat circle about 5cm (2 inches) in diameter. This seems tiny, doesn’t it? Trust me. When you fold it over a cheese wheel, it expands perfectly.

Once you finish Round 3, cut your yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing later. Fasten off. Repeat this entire process to create a second identical circle.

Assembly: Now for the fun part. Place the two circles right sides together (if you want the seams hidden) or wrong sides together (if you prefer visible seams for a rustic look). Using your tapestry needle and the long tails left earlier, sew the edges together using a whip stitch or slip stitch through both loops. Leave a small gap (about 1 inch) if you plan to stuff it. If you’re making the traditional “real cheese” cover, close it completely. Slip your unwrapped Babybel cheese through the opening. It’s like slipping a finger into a sock, but cozier.

Sizing and Scaling Tips

I get asked constantly: “What if I want to make this for a Gouda?” or “Can I make it for my toddler’s doll?” The answer is yes, but you need to understand the math behind the magic. The circumference of a circle grows linearly with its radius, but in crochet, every time we add a round of increases, the diameter expands significantly.

If your gauge is correct (6 sc per inch), adding one more round of increases (like Round 4: sc in 2, 2 sc in next) will increase the diameter by roughly 1 cm (0.4 inches).

Scaling for Larger Cheeses: If you need a cover for a standard wheel of Cheddar (much larger than a Babybel), don’t just keep increasing forever; that will cause ruffling. Instead, after your initial increases stop the circle from curling up (usually around Round 6 or 7 for worsted weight), start working even rounds (one single crochet in each stitch) for several rounds to build height without expanding the width further. This creates the cylinder shape needed for larger wheels.

Creating a Stuffed Version: If you’re making a plush toy and wish to stuff it, don’t wait until the very last stitch. As you sew the two circles together, pause at the 1-inch gap mentioned above. Gently stuff polyfill into the center. Don’t overstuff it, or it will look lumpy and lose the “soft cheese” aesthetic. You want it firm enough to hold its shape but soft enough to squish. Once stuffed, whip stitch the remaining opening closed. I find using a slightly firmer polyfill works best so the “cheese” doesn’t sag after washing.

Remember, if you change yarn weight, your gauge changes. If you switch to bulky yarn, you’ll need fewer rounds to reach the same size, but you’ll need to be careful with your hook size to avoid giant holes. Always test a swatch!

Customization Ideas

One of the joys of this project is that Babybel cheese isn’t the only star in the dairy aisle. Let’s get creative.

Different Cheese Types: Why stop at the classic orange-red wax?

• Brie or Camembert: Use a creamy white or pale yellow cotton yarn. These cheeses have a bloomy rind, so a slightly fuzzy yarn texture (like bamboo or a mohair blend) can mimic that velvety exterior perfectly.
• Swiss Cheese: If you’re feeling ambitious, try incorporating popcorn stitches or cluster stitches sparingly in the middle rounds to simulate the characteristic holes. It’s subtle, but those who know, know.
• Blue Cheese: Use a grey or slate blue yarn, perhaps with flecks of white thread woven in to simulate the mold veins. It’s a conversation starter at any dinner party.

Packaging Details: The iconic red wax wrapper is half the charm. While some people eat the wax (don’t judge, I’ve seen it), most of us want a decorative element. You can crochet a small rectangular tube using single crochet in the round that slips over the top of your cheese cover.

• Pattern Idea: Chain 20 (adjust based on cheese circumference). Join with a slip stitch. Work in continuous spirals for 2 inches. Fasten off. Sew the short ends together to form a loop.
• Add a little “pull tab” by chaining 5, working a slip stitch back into the loop, and attaching it to the top edge with a knot. Paint the actual wax wrapper with fabric paint if you want it to look authentic.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

Even experienced crocheters hit snags. Here’s how to fix the most common headaches.

Wavy Edges or Ruffling: If your circle starts looking like a ruffled skirt instead of a flat pancake, you’re likely doing too many increases. Each round doubles the stitches, and if you keep multiplying, the perimeter grows faster than the fabric can lay flat.

• The Fix: Stop increasing once the circle lays flat. If you see waves, check your count. Did you accidentally do 2 sc in every stitch instead of alternating? Correct your count. Going forward, work 1 sc in each stitch (no increases) until the piece lies flat again.

Uneven Stitches: If one side is tighter than the other, your tension is inconsistent. This often happens when moving from row to row or if you’re pulling the yarn too hard when switching colors or finishing rounds.

• The Fix: Use a stitch marker consistently at the beginning of each round. Count your stitches at the end of every round. It sounds tedious, but catching an error in Round 2 saves you from unraveling Round 10. If you notice the circle curling up at the edges (convex curl), you might need one more round of increases. If it ripples (concave curl), you need fewer increases. It’s a balancing act, but with practice, your hands will learn the rhythm.