How to Crochet a Pride Flag Purse for Your Gay Agenda

Planning Your Pride Bag

Let’s get one thing straight before we even pull a yarn ball off the shelf: freehanding a bag isn’t just about making random squares of color stick together. It’s about intention. When I first started trying to make bags that actually held their shape and didn’t look like they’d been chewed on by a very enthusiastic puppy, I learned that the secret ingredient isn’t magic—it’s preparation. And tea. Lots of tea.

Choosing Yarn and Hook Size

If you’re looking to make a purse that will survive a day out at a festival, or just carrying your daily essentials without collapsing into a heap of floppy fabric, you need to think about fiber content and tension. Honestly, I used to think I could get away with cheap acrylic for everything. Boy, was I wrong. Acrylic stretches. It loves to stretch. And when you’re making a bag that needs to hold your phone, keys, and maybe a wallet, stretching is the enemy.

I highly recommend going with a 100% cotton yarn. Specifically, something like Anchor Creativa Fino or a similar sport-weight cotton. Why? Because cotton has no give. It’s firm, it’s durable, and it washes well. When you pair that with a smaller hook, you create a dense fabric that feels almost like canvas.

For this project, I’m using a 3.5mm (E/4) hook. Some people might panic at that small hook for a bag, saying it’ll take forever. And yes, it will take time. But trust me on this: the resulting fabric is tight enough that your items won’t fall through the gaps, and it won’t sag after an hour of wear. If you find yourself struggling with those tiny stitches, you can move up to a 4.0mm (G/6), but stay away from larger hooks unless you want a mesh net bag, which is cute, but terrible for holding loose change.

Gauge matters here more than it does for a scarf. You want roughly 7-8 single crochets per inch. If your stitches are too loose, your bag will grow three sizes after one wash. Do a swatch. Yes, I know you hate it. I hate it too. But do it anyway.

Designing the Color Blocks

Now, let’s talk colors. You want a Pride flag, but which one? The classic rainbow? The Trans pride flag? The Bisexual flag? Or maybe you’re feeling experimental with the Progress Pride flag?

My advice? Map it out. Grab a piece of graph paper or use a free grid app on your phone. Decide on your stripe widths. For a standard purse, a 4-inch wide bag might have stripes that are 6-8 rows tall each. Don’t just guess. Write it down. “Row 1-7: Red, Row 8-14: Orange,” etc.

Here is a pro-tip for color changes that saved my sanity years ago: never tie knots. Seriously. When I first tried tying knots, my bag had lumps the size of marbles inside the fabric. Instead, join your new color with a slip stitch (sl st) at the start of a row, pull the new yarn through to secure it, and continue. You’ll weave in the ends later. This keeps the edge neat and prevents bulk.

Also, consider your dominant hand. If you crochet right-handed, your left edge tends to look slightly neater because you’re pulling the working yarn from the left. Keep that in mind if you’re doing complex geometric patterns. And remember, there’s no “wrong” way to do it, as long as you’re happy with the result. Though, if you mess up a stripe, don’t panic. Unraveling (frogging) is part of the process. I’ve spent hours unpicking rows only to realize the mistake was just me counting wrong. Happens to the best of us.

Crocheting the Bag Body

Alright, the planning is done. The tea is brewed. Let’s get our hands dirty. This is where the magic happens, and where most people get overwhelmed. Don’t worry. We’ll take it one stitch at a time.

Starting with the Foundation

There are two main ways to build the body of this bag: working in the round for a seamless tube, or working back and forth in rows to create a flat panel that you then sew up. I prefer the latter for beginners because it’s easier to see your pattern developing.

To start, calculate your desired bag width. Let’s say you want a 10-inch wide bag. With your gauge of 7 stitches per inch, you’ll need a foundation chain of about 70 chains. Check your math. I always add 2 extra chains for turning.

Work in rows. Your first row is crucial. Use single crochet (sc) all the way down. Why sc? Because it’s tight. Double crochet (dc) creates gaps. Half double crochet (hdc) is looser. For a structured bag, sc is your best friend.

When you finish your first row, turn your work. Here’s a trick I learned the hard way: insert your hook into the back loop only of the first stitch of the new row. This creates a nice, crisp edge that looks professional. If you skip this, your edges might look ragged, and no one wants a ragged purse.

Stitch Selection for Structure

Throughout the body of the bag, stick to single crochet (sc) or half double crochet (hdc). I personally love the texture of hdc for the background colors because it’s slightly faster than sc but still dense. However, if you are doing the intricate details of a flag or logo, sc gives you that pixel-perfect resolution.

Maintaining straight edges is the biggest challenge in freehand crochet. If your tension varies, your sides will curve inward or outward. To combat this, try to keep your tension consistent. It’s okay if it’s tight! A little pain in the fingers is better than a misshapen bag.

Pay attention to the end of each row. If you’re decreasing or increasing, do it gradually. But for a simple rectangular body, just work one stitch in every chain/stitch. Count your stitches every ten rows. It’s boring, I know. But finding out you have 75 stitches instead of 70 when you’re halfway through the handle? That’s a frustration I wish to spare you.

Adding the Bag Base

A bag without a base is just a tote bag that collapses when you set it down. We want structure. We want dignity.

To create a stable base, work in an oval or a rectangle. Start with a chain that is half the depth of your desired base. For a 4-inch deep base, chain 12 (approx). Work single crochet along one side, add 3-4 sts in the end chain, work down the other side, and add 3-4 sts in the other end.

You’ll see this forming an oval. Continue increasing at the ends for about 3-4 rounds until the base fits the width of your bag body. Test it! Place your bag body on top of the base. Does it fit snugly? Good. Once you have the base, you can switch to joining the sides or continuing the body in the round. I usually join the sides with slip stitches for a invisible seam, then switch to working in the round for the height of the bag. This makes color changing much easier since you aren’t turning back and forth.

Finishing Details

You’ve got the body. You’ve got the base. Now, let’s make it usable. A pretty bag that spills its contents on the floor is not a useful bag.

Creating the Handle or Strap

Handles are the stress point of any bag. They take the weight. I’ve dropped bags from the handles before (don’t judge me), and it’s never fun.

Option 1: Crocheted I-Cord. This is strong and sleek. Chain 4, sl st into the first chain to form a ring. Then, work single crochet around the cord, inserting your hook under both loops of the previous row. Do this until you have a rope about 24-28 inches long (adjust for your shoulder comfort). Attach one end to the inside top corner of the bag, span across the top, and attach the other end to the opposite inside corner.

Option 2: Fabric Strap. Sometimes, buying a sturdy canvas webbing strap is just smarter. It’s durable, washable, and saves you hours of crocheting. Cut a piece of webbing to 24 inches. Fold the ends over and sew them securely to the inside of the bag, reinforcing with multiple lines of stitching.

Option 3: Braided Chain. Braid three strands of your yarn (or cotton cord) together. It’s decorative and surprisingly strong if you braid it tight.

Whichever you choose, make sure the attachment points are reinforced. Add a small square of scrap fabric or extra yarn rows behind the attachment spot on the inside of the bag to distribute the weight.

Adding a Lining

I cannot stress this enough: Line your bag. Crochet fabric, even dense cotton, has holes. Your lipstick will leave marks. Your keys will poke through. A lining keeps everything tidy and adds another layer of strength.

Cut a piece of medium-weight cotton fabric (like quilting cotton or duck cloth) to fit the interior of your bag. It should be slightly smaller than the exterior so it doesn’t puff out. Pin it in place. Sew it using a whip stitch or backstitch along the top rim. If your bag has a zippered top, you can install the zipper into the lining before sewing it up, creating a secure closure.

It takes about 30 minutes, but it elevates your bag from “craft project” to “functional accessory.”

Embellishments and Personalization

This is your “Gay Agenda” purse, after all! Make it yours. Add a button closure? Sure. Embroider a small symbol on the front? Even better.

I love adding patches. Whether it’s a vintage LGBTQ+ pin or a handmade embroidered flower, sew it on securely. Just ensure the pin or patch doesn’t interfere with the bag’s functionality. Maybe put it on the lining flap so it’s visible but protected.

Tips for Freehanding Your Own Design

Freehanding means you’re the architect. That’s empowering, but it’s also scary. What if you lose your place? What if the stripes look wobbly?

Keeping Track of Rounds

Use stitch markers. Not just any markers—different colored ones. Use a red marker for the start of the round, and a blue marker to mark the beginning of each color block. This visual cue is invaluable when you’re tired and your brain starts to fog up.

Keep a notebook next to you. Jot down “Row 12: Finished Blue stripe.” It sounds silly, but when you’re three hours in, you won’t remember where you were.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

Curling Edges: If your bag curls like a potato chip, you’re likely working too many stitches per row. Try alternating single crochet with double crochet, or simply stop increasing. If it’s already curled, soak it in water and lay it flat to dry with pins. Steam helps too.

Uneven Stripes: If your colors look jagged, check your tension. Are you pulling tighter on the color changes? Try to keep the pull consistent. Also, ensure you’re counting your rows accurately.

Bag Sagging: If the middle droops, your sides are too narrow. Add more single crochet stitches to the sides in the next round to “pull” the bag up. It’s a simple fix that works wonders.

Remember, perfection is the enemy of done. Your bag will have quirks. Those quirks make it unique. Happy crocheting!